Purists will be pleased to discover McMahan doesn’t entirely forsake cottage cheese, but it’s liberally cut with sour cream and eggs, which act as buoyant binder for handfuls of extra-fine noodles. Delicate slivers are served alongside dunes of punchy, Champagne-vinegar-dressed salad, and artfully surrounded by sugar plums (standing in for the standard raisins), braised leeks, dairy emulsion and drizzles of rabbit jus. “To pay respect to its roots but tweak it, despite my mom’s insistence that it should be sweet, composed primarily of cottage cheese, and baked in a round pan.”Īnd to be sure, Celestine’s version is a far cry from the bland, bread-pudding-textured pucks we members of the tribe likely grew up with.
“That was my objective with kugel,” he continues. “I even tried to integrate her goulash during my time at Perilla, thinking, How could I take an incredibly delicious dish that’s super simple and not at all refined, and make it fit into this place?” “I’m from the Midwest and my mom came over on the boat from Germany, so comfort dishes like noodle casserole strike a chord of familiarity with me,” chef Garett McMahan says. So it’s not entirely incongruous to spot noodle kugel at sleek restaurants like Celestine, the newest glassed-in, glittering tenant of DUMBO’s waterside revival, especially considering the casserole’s status as the innocuous, crowd-pleasing cousin to jellied lozenges of ground and poached pike.
Gourmetized gefilte fish undoubtedly paved the way for the sexification of Jewish food, opening the floodgates to sake-soused challah, latke sandwiches, pastrami ramen and matzoh ball scotch eggs. Chef Garett McMahan has added rabbit to the traditional dish.
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